Wednesday, September 30, 2020

Let's see if the seeing forecasts are right

Right now (9/30, Wed, 5 pm), two seeing forecasts are predicting excellent seeing from late Thursday night to Friday morning. 


 Clear Sky Clock says around 1 am Friday we'll see excellent seeing.

Astrospheric predicts the Flagstaff area will have excellent seeing as well starting sometime between 11 pm on Thursday and 2 am on Friday.

However, Meteoblue predicts a much more conservative average to above average seeing.  I've seen meteoblue forecast .23 seeing and also some not-so-great 1.2 seeing so .53 seems to mean something like above average?        

(It looks like meteoblue had some inaccurate seeing numbers for the last couple weeks.   Those numbers should be multiplied by x4.)

(Later:  I just learned about https://www.goodtostargaze.com and it shows seeing numbers (2.1 to 2.2 tonight) that feel a lot more accurate than Meteoblue.  The free service only gives you maybe 1 1/2 nights but that will still be a useful data point.)

(Later, later: I just checked Meteoblue and it's reading in the .5's again so I don't know what to think, it seems accurate in a lot of other places in the country.)





Crossing my fingers on Mars

 

Had about 15 minutes of good seeing.   This is the red channel.  Here's to hoping...

Monday, September 28, 2020

More notes on Mars capture (and Venus capture) with the 8" newt

This is a bit of a brain dump so...

Last night I setup the 8" F/6 newt for planetary imaging.  I had a couple of different reasons for trying this setup.   I had tried shooting Venus a couple nights ago (9/24-25?) with the QHY290m through the C11 using the Baader U filter. (It was the first night out with the Siebert UV barlow.)  

(The C11 setup about 15 min before sunrise.  Venus barely seen as white dot.)

Much to my satisfaction, I saw some larger contrast features on Venus through the C11.  (The barlow and U-Venus filter work!!!)  But the pessimistic side of me wondered if the corrector plate was limiting UV transmission.  (I assumed there would be more detail.)  My assumption was that the corrector plate was BK-7, but upon further googling (or "binging" or "duckduckgoing"), the best guesses are 'water white glass' or green glass.   I couldn't find much info on water white glass except that many versions that are offered mention around 70% reduction in UV.   I can't figure out if the reduction in UV is primarily a coating effect or inherent in the glass.  In any case, I figured that using a newtonian (which has no glass corrector) would afford me more UV signal and thus more contrast and definition on Venus.

Regular mirror coatings (protected aluminum) tend to drop off as they approach 400 nm.   But the percentage of reflection at 400 nm is still around 50-60%.   So based upon the transmission curves, I've assumed that UV transmission will be pretty good with a regular newt.  (But keeping in mind we're dealing with 2 mirrors, the UV transmission is probably closer to 30% with both mirrors reflecting a very optimistic 55% at 350 nm.)  

When I first got the 8" f/6 scope out, I spent a long while assembling and collimating.  As I began to reacquaint myself with the scope, I started thinking about why I wasn't using it much.   One thing I've been plagued by is the collimation drift.   I chose a 3-vane Protostar spider and and it has 3 collimation screws.   For me, 3 collimation screws often have more play in them than 4 collimation screws.   Over the course of the evening, I found I needed to recollimate about every 2 hours or whenever I did a meridian flip.  Even with just the laser collimator, the laser would hit about 1/16 inch away from the center of the mirror after some time.  (I made sure to turn the laser in the focuser to make sure it was square and the laser dot didn't move in any appreciable way.)

Another issue was that the barlow and camera were almost completely pulled out.  The focus seems to be like 5 inches away from the body of the tube.  As I was finagling with things, I remembered that I initially was even further out (maybe 7 inches) when I first assembled the scope.  I don't think you can tell in the image below, but I think I could pull the mirror down another 3/4 inches. 

(Just a random cellphone pic of the 8" F/6 during the night.)

The last few times I imaged with the scope (I think it was at the Arizona Sky Village), I had to deal with mysterious elongated stars.  They were in maybe 90% of the images -- no matter how long or short my exposure.   I assumed it was the coma corrector since taking it out seemed to fix the issue.  But I noticed that when I touched the base of the focuser OR the focuser adapter plate, the image would sometimes move dramatically.  Hm...  I tightened down the 4 allen-head screws holding the focuser to the focuser adapter, but I couldn't tighten the adapter since the screws were inside the tube underneath the flocking.  This latter procedure would require a minor teardown of the scope.  BUT even if tightened down, I'm guessing I would still have problems and this aforementioned issue may be the source of elongated stars.   ONE WAY of dealing with this is to add a 12" x 5" piece of rolled aluminum to the inside of the scope centered around the focuser.  This would add some stability.  ALSO, I could add another wooden ring close to the focuser.  In the meanwhile, my workaround was to hold the corner of the focuser with one hand and focus with the other.

With the UV barlow, I was able to collect images of Mars with the QHY462C color camera.  Since my focal ratio and FOV was considerably different than the C11's (5600 mm fl vs 3000 mm fl), I had to shrink the fov to 180 x 180 pixels to not have a huge area of black space around the planet.

The downside with such a small window is the obvious lack of meaningful small details.  But I was able to shoot at around 230 fps which means I collected something like 700,000 frames.

I ended my 462C session by shooting some initial Venus frames with the IR850 filter.

When I swtiched to the QHY290m, I tried a number of different combinations...

With the 8" F/6, *I think* I started my Venus experiment with the Baader U-Venus filter, the Siebert UV barlow.  Somewhat to my disappointment it showed about the same results as the C11 combo I had going a couple nights ago.  There was a patch of darker banding protruding across the "southern" 1/3 of the planetary disc.   And there was a hint of another patch that mirrored the banding on the other 1/3 of the planet.  

Every so often, it seemed like I was seeing something that looked like finer lines near the darker bands and toward the equator.   But I couldn't be sure.  Maybe it will come out in stacking, maybe it's just wishful thinking.

I also switched out to just the QHY290m with the U-Venus filter (no barlow) and though the planet looked tiny, it seemd like the bands were much more pronounced which is to be expected.

Then I tried using the Televue 2x barlow and I *think* the 1/3 bands were present but seemingly less so compared to when I was using the UV barlow.  

Out of curiosity I also tried a short run with the #47 Violet filter and UV barlow.  It didn't seem to show any detail on the surface.  Maybe some hints of the 1/3 bands, but only because I knew they were there.

I finished the session with the initial combination of the U-Venus filter and the Siebert UV barlow.

The seeing was definitely worse than it was on the 24th but better than it was on the 26th when I also went out.

At this point, without seeing stacked images, it seems like the best combo was through the C11 with the the Sierbert UV barlow and the QHY290m and Baader U-Venus.

There is another way to potentially tweak things in terms of the camera.  The camera itself has a "built-in" adapter that allows you to mount a c-mount? type lens.   But this built-in adapter has a window in it.  I wonder if that could be replaced so there's one less glass element in the imaging train.

All of this has made me wonder what the ideal Venus scope would look like.  And I think we're talking a 4000mm+ scope that doesn't require a barlow.   From a practical perspective, I think we're talking about an all mirror cassegrain or dall-kirkham telescope.   You probably want 14+ inches to get detail that will please you for a long while.

(Later: Oh, I wanted to mention that I saw astigmatism intermittently through the session.  I noticed it when I was focusing -- the out of focus image would look like an oval and then when I went to the other side of focus, I would see another oval oriented at 90 degrees relative to the first one.  I need to investigate further, but I'm 99% sure it was because I had to pull out the camera so far that the locking bolt on the barlow was putting pressure on the U-Venus filter.)



Thursday, September 24, 2020

Just some notes on current Mars captures

So...  I actually started the evening by replacing the collimation screws on the SCT.  One of the stock screws had stripped and the other two were well on their way.   So I bought some stainless hex screws and luckily I purchased the correct size.  I started by taking the bad screw out.   I figured out that I needed to tighten the other screws as I was removing the bad screw.  When I got it all back together, I was obscenely out of collimation.   Embarrassingly, it took an hour to get the collimation back to spec.

In terms of imaging, I started the evening with the QHY 462C camera and methane images of Jupiter and Saturn.  Tried the UV barlow from Harry Siebert.   Disappointed to see 4-5 small scratches on the lens AND ghost reflections, but it's okay.   Tried the Baader methane filter on Mars -- not much to see. Then switched to the UV/IR blocking filter through the TV 2x and ZWO ADC.   Seeing seems consistently decent through the night -- but still I'm only seeing okay details on the planet.  There are these fleeting moments occasionally of good surface detail but mostly, it's just okay.   Doing 11 and 13 sets of 2 min images to be stacked and sharpened, then dropped in WinJupos.  

I have the UV filter and UV barlow but I don't know if it will work through the SCT.   Might be a dumb idea.  We'll see...

[Update:  Finished the morning by shooting Venus with the QHY290M with the Baader UV filter and Siebert UV barlow.  Probably too much magnification but there were definitely some bright and dark areas which must correspond to the varying densities of upper atmosphere clouds.   I shot 4 min subs and tried to keep the histogram to the right.  Don't feel great after staying up all night.]

Monday, September 14, 2020

Moon from Nov 1 2017

 

Still going through old files and found this project.   The subs are from Nov. 1 2017.

Based on the raw metadata, this is from the Canon 6D, 1/250th sec exposure, and I stacked about 54 shots.   Time was around 10:18 - 10:20 pm.  Telescope?   My guess is the Tak TSA102S.   I bet the scope is actually the Orion 100ED as I was using that scope for the kids while I was running the Basis Astro Club.  

Aligned in PIPP and stacked in Registax.   Touched up in Photoshop.

Yay for going through old files, I guess.

[Doing some sleuthing... I ran a lunar workshop for CAS in 2018 and it looks like the above image was the pic that I used for the FB announcement.  I suspect Jeff was at this lunar shoot as well.]

[I'm spending so much time going through old files that I'm feeling crappier than usual.  Not a PC way of putting it, but: handicapped by own neglect....]

Comet Images from 2013

Based on the scant context, I think this is from the Canon 350D and a Zeiss 135mm lens.   Single frame taken on May 10th, 2013 around 4:46 am so I think it's Panstarrs (C/2011 L4) two months after it's closest approach.  I suspect it is a 10 second exposure.   The camera is pointing SE in the early dawn sky.


It's a little noisy, but still wanted to keep the image.  The brightest star in the upper right is Algenib.



So looking at the metadata, the above image is a still from May 10th also at around 4:50 am.  So something is goofy about the shots.  The bright star is Errai (Gamma Cephei) as solved by Astrometry.net.  Also, it appears I was using the 135mm lens (probably at f/3.2) with the Canon 350D.   The noise is sorta astounding.   I once did an informal comparison of dark frames from the Canon 350D, the T3i, and the 6D a few years ago.   My memory is that the 350D had like 3x as many noisy pixels as the T3i which in turn had 2x as many noisy pixels as the 6D.  

The first shot above has a definite greenish-blue tinge while this second one is much more white in appearance.  I also suspect that second shot was at max ISO of maybe 3200?

I have so many "sightseeing" images from 2011 to 2013 that I just wanted to pull a few out before deleting them.   I'm kinda disappointed that I didn't take a full set of images of that latter comet.   At the time, I vaguely remember thinking that I should go slowly and take my time.   I had all the equipment to properly image those comets.   Yet I didn't.  

*Just wanted to point out that the Canon350D (circa 2004) had very limited metadata info.  Probably with the T-series (like my T3i), they incorporated much more info (lens, f/stop, temp, etc) in the metadata tag.

**Also, why was I (am I) still holding on to the 350D?   Well, as noisy as it was, it was more sensitive (better QE?) than the T3i.   As blasphemous as it sounds, in terms of sensitivity, it competes well with current cameras.   I guess I'm holding out on the possibility of doing a TEC mod to cool the sensor by 20 degrees.

Friday, September 11, 2020

Dumb post about a dumb process -- PhotometricColorCalibration in PI

So...   I was going through my old files and I thought I'd get reacquainted with PhotometricColorCalibration in PixInsight.   Well, well, well.  Error after error after error, I did the obligatory search online and looked at forums and I didn't really see a consistent solution to the problems which seem related to platesolving.  I now remember why I don't use it. :)

But after almost giving up, I finally got it to work... sort of.   What I figured out was that there were SIX (!!!) different settings that you could "wiggle" that would sometimes make it work... eventually.  To me, there is no logic to it.   But I thought I'd write a few notes here so that when I actually work on a data set, I don't pull my remaining hairs out of my proverbial head.  


#1:  The first time I got a successful solve was by changing the White Reference setting to O9V star.   I was trying to solve the Flaming Star Nebula and I looked up AE Auriga (the brightest star in the frame) on wiki and found it was a type O9.   After the successful solve, I tried other "white references" and found that G2V and Average Spiral Galaxy worked as well.  So...  that actually didn't give me much confidence.

#1A:   I tried a bunch of other images and I found that one time I could get a solve by changing the Declination by a few minutes.   Weird.   Again, no logic to it.

#2:  After a bunch of failed solves, I noticed in the process console that the scale was oftentimes wrong.   It would show something like 17.x arc/pixel.   Which is WAY OFF by a factor of 10-ish.  So, I entered .43 for the pixel size when in fact it was 4.3.   That would do the trick sometimes.   BUT get this....  one time, it didn't solve and I changed .43 to .42 and it solved.   WTF!?!?!

#3:  The thing that made things work the most consistently however was changing the Astrometry catalog from either UCAC3 to Gaia or vice-versa.   When you change the catalog, a new download occurs.  For some reason, this can make everything suddenly work without changing another setting.    Again:  WTF!?!?

#4: A couple people online have said that unchecking the 'Automatic limit magnitude' and then going to 13 can help.   Well, I don't think that ever was a solution for me, but it might be something to try if everything else doesn't work.  As a default I just use the 13 mag setting.

[Update:  I had a situation where I did the opposite (ie changing the magnitude BACK to 'Automatic limit' and it worked.  So, toggle, toggle...]

#5: I've tried using Noise reduction at a '1' or '2' setting.  I don't know if it does anything really.   [Later: I was having problems with a solve with the Noise reduction set to 0, changed it 3 and then got the solve.  So, it can work, but I was working on individual (not stacked nor calibrated) frames which tend to have some noise.]

#6: I also keep the automatic limit magnitude unchecked and enter 13 for the limit.

# Bonus:  Lastly, I make a small preview window in the same way you might for Background Neutralization and click the "From Preview" button and select the preview for the ROI.   I'm assuming this just saves a step.

Why all this effort?   Well, I normally just use Colorcalibration and it works great.   But sometimes, I feel like my colors are off and by using PCC (ugh), I'll be starting with a clean slate.




Another example where I didn't get a solve with spiral galaxies as the "white reference".   But I changed 3 things (I know, I know): 1) Set the white reference to G2V; and 2) since arc seconds/pix was at 17.7x, I switched the pixel size to .43; and 3) I switched the Astrometry catalog to Gaia.   The image was a little green so I did a pass of SCNR for good measure.

Hm...



So, I tried solving the Flame again and no dice.  :/  I played with settings and this time the thing that worked was setting the pixel size to the erroneous .37 value.  Look at those stars match the expected line on the graph.






Monday, September 7, 2020

Reviewing Old Data

I'm in the process of doing an inventory of a bunch of old drives.  I probably have about 15 old drives that date back to the late 90's. After learning how to use PixInsight, I was always planning to go back to have a second go at some data sets including the M81/82 shot I posted back in April 2015. 

I was never happy with that shot as it became "cartoony" and fuzzy-wuzzy for lack of better terms.  As I was looking at individual frames, I noticed there was definitely a loss of small details in M81.   In the better shots of M81, there's a kind of faint three-fingered "scratch" across the arms, near the core.   

Here's an example from a random person on Astrobin:

https://www.astrobin.com/full/rnu5hd/0/?nc=user

But in my result that's missing.  I think I was really trying to tease out the IFN nebulosity so much that I ended up pushing the processing so that smaller, delicate details just got lost.  Fuzzy wuzzy indeed.

[Couple points before I forget: My subs were 600 seconds on the Canon T3i.  That's too long.  Before I even stretched the image, I could see the core of M81 was blown out.  I think 360 seconds would have been perfect but with the same total amount of hours.  As I embark upon future projects on CMOS cameras, I think I need to be closer to 3-4 minutes for subs at F6-7.]

[Also: I need to do a much better job at noting WHICH TELESCOPE I'm using on subs.  It's obvious I switched telescopes on a couple nights but I don't think I ended up taking flats on one or both of those nights!   

I think the blame here is that sometimes, I'll engage essentially in "sight seeing" so I'll take an hour's worth of data on a random target just to see.   For example, I have an hour on NGC253 and an hour on NGC6888 but it doesn't look like I took flats.  I think a lot of folks do this because it's fun, but I'm not here to make friends.....  :/]



Sunday, September 6, 2020

Some thoughts while waiting for the scope to cool down...

"Posted 22 November 2016 - 04:30 PM

That's close, looks like I'd need a guidescope still. Someone also mentioned the "magnificent one" or something like that. It was similar but I think it came with the little guide camera/scope.

Scratch that I just read about the Magnificent mini autoguider system and they were talking about the software and how it works with Windows 10 and PhD blah blah blah. I will check out that Ontario one.

Edited by View2, 22 November 2016 - 04:37 PM."

 

This is a quote from someone on Cloudynights.  There's a fair number of people on CN that can't be bothered with information that ventures outside the scope of their initial enquiry.  I was thinking about politics and closed-mindedness.   At the risk of oversimplifying political discourse and overemphasizing a seemingly trivial forum post response, it seems to me that a sign of an eroding democracy is the rise of idiocy and a general disregard for those who not only hold different political opinions but who are engaging in activities that one person is not.  The "other" becomes everyone except for me, my family, and my like-minded "friends" who are doing exactly the same thing I'm doing in exactly the same way.   Ruling a country of self-absorbed, closed-minded people who despise those who are doing anything that would suggest that their approach is inadequate requires non-democratic systems.  

In a totalitarian regime, it's fine for the citizens to hate each other and engage in occasional violence because the state can always step in and assert power.   In a way, both the regime and unruly citizenry will tend to "deserve each other".  The state can exist in a continual crisis mode and justify horrible actions.   In this way, pessimism towards fairness and equality become the norm, almost a required attitude.

When the moderators on CN claim that they don't allow political discussions, I do know what they mean.   But in a real sense, such statements are meaningless and quite arbitrary.   There are tons of generalizations about "Orientals" and women on CN, but no one seems to care unless someone responds in an appropriately outraged or disappointed manner.   Usually the moderators' silence speaks volumes here in terms of "aiding and abetting" people who are routinely racist and sexist.  Unfortunately, instead of these moments being potential "teaching" or healing opportunities, the threads are locked or removed (or both).  Such actions create an atmosphere where the person who is rightly objecting to some reprehensible comment is in some ways being "punished" for speaking out. 


[Later:  I don't want to make this a permanent feature of this blog, but here's a review from Newegg...

"Anonymous
Ownership: 1 week to 1 month
Verified Owner
So far does the trick 10/17/2018 10:54:25 AM

Pros: -holds 2 HDDs
-looks classy/minimalistic
-no issues with read/write speed so far
-easy to install/swap HDDs

Cons: -no RAID hardware
-does not completely silence HDD sound

Overall Review: Took a risk because there were no reviews and it's coming from Hong Kong, but for the price and my use case: Does the job I purchased it for since I'm already using Windows "software RAID" for redundancy and not sure if I trust myself to set up hardware RAID. Will update if I notice my HDD lifetime is reduced or it fails. Can hear the slightest hum from it, but I can't imagine a system that silences it completely."

(my use of bold, red, and underline)

This is quite common online.  This constant disparagement of products coming from China, Hong Kong, or less commonly, Taiwan.

What risk did this reviewer take?  Oh, you want to justify it in a hundred different ways, but the fact is is that the reviewer is not going to say something like, 'Took a risk because...  it's coming from Germany."   ]

 

[reply to Anonymous' post below...(I figured out that if you post anything important in the response that Blogger deletes it immediately....thus:)

I have some seemingly long-winded comments in response that have to do with the importance of theory and the connections between selfish societies and the slippery slope to Auschwitz.    

But since the internet does not encourage meaningful discussion about important matters, let me quote TS Eliot:

“Half the harm that is done in this world is due to people who want to feel important. They don't mean to do harm; but the harm does not interest them. Or they do not see it, or they justify it because they are absorbed in the endless struggle to think well of themselves.”
]

 

Or I guess another way to put it is that I'm not so much interested in whether there is racism, but I'm much more interested in the questions of HOW and WHY?  Most people can't get to these questions because they are either justifying racism or denying it (I see these positions as equivalent), or they are spending all their time trying to prove its existence.   The latter activity can be an intellectual trap.


Wednesday, September 2, 2020

The seeing is supposed to be excellent after 4 am. We'll see.....


Blogger sucks.  Also, Amazon sucks.  And Facebook is run by a person with the moral intelligence of a 9 year-old.

Anyways...  the useful link:  https://www.calsky.com/?Marsviewer=&

 

(Update:  So, what I said in the "lost post" held true -- the "wavey" normal distortions were largely absent which led to better potential details.  But there was an ever-present jitter in the images.  I'm wondering if it's in the mechanical-optical system because when I first started recording after putting in the camera, it seemed really stable.  After 5 minutes, the jitter (or high-frequency movement) started taking over.  After I did a meridian flip, it seemed calm for maybe 30 seconds, then the problem came back.  I placed my hand on the scope body and mount to see if that had any effect and it didn't.   It's possible that the calm moments were just random events but I'm not sure how to test it.  I suppose I could have had my dob out (a real logistical chore at 3 am) and looked visually.  On the prior night of awful seeing, I peered at a few stars through the binoculars and it seemed like I was seeing the jitter on lower lying stars.  I've never really looked for it since I don't typically spend time looking at "bad stars".)

Tuesday, September 1, 2020